Last Updated on July 25, 2025 by Christian Heide
This July, we decided on a rather spontaneous getaway to escape the city heat of Barcelona for a night. We have recently fallen in love with a unique Spanish hotel chain called Paradores—a collection of historic accommodations set in castles, palaces, monasteries, and other culturally significant landmarks. The chain, which is actually state-owned, was created to promote tourism while preserving Spain’s architectural and cultural heritage.
We looked up their nearby locations and quickly settled on the Castle of Cardona, just 85 kilometres from Barcelona. The best part? You actually get to sleep in the medieval castle perched on a hilltop. We rented a car and hit the road the very next day.
The drive was a delight. Cruising through the Catalan countryside is always a joy, and along the way, we passed by the majestic Montserrat Monastery. This iconic mountain, rising to about 1200 meters, holds a special place in our hearts. Every time we see it—whether hiking, visiting, or simply passing by—we are filled with awe. The monastery, built nearly a thousand years ago, still feels timeless.
After about 1 hour and 45 minutes of winding mountain roads and scenic highways, we finally arrived at our destination and checked in to the Parador de Cardona.
The Castle of Cardona
The origins of the Castle of Cardona date back to the year 886, when it was built to defend the border between the Catholic Catalan Counties and the Muslim Moorish dominions. Over time, it was granted to the powerful Cardona family, along with exclusive rights to exploit the region’s valuable salt mine. This strategic advantage made the Cardonas the wealthiest noble family in the Kingdom of Aragón—second only to the royal family itself.
After the Moors were driven out, the castle gradually lost its military significance. The Cardona family shifted their residence to a palace in Barcelona to remain closer to the royal court. In later centuries, the fortress endured significant damage—first during the War of the Spanish Succession (1701–1714), and again during the Spanish Civil War (1936–1939). Restoration efforts began in the late 1950s.
By 1976, the castle was incorporated into the Paradores network and underwent extensive restoration. As the Paradores website describes:
“The transformation struck a balance: preserving medieval architectural features—moats, towers, Gothic walls—while adapting interiors for modern hospitality, including comfortable guest rooms, a rooftop restaurant in the old refectory, and period-inspired décor.”
We had the chance to stay overnight and truly felt like nobility—surrounded by stone walls, sweeping views, and centuries of history. From the inner courtyard to the stunning view from our hotel room, everything felt steeped in medieval charm.
We also joined a private guided tour of the castle grounds, including the Romanesque church—a remarkably well-preserved structure completed in 1040. It was one of the highlights of our visit and something we highly recommend to anyone visiting Cardona.
The Village of Cardona
With a population of around 4,000, the village of Cardona is a charming and peaceful place. Its historic center is remarkably well preserved, and wandering through its narrow backstreets feels like stepping back in time. Along the way, you will come across a number of small, locally owned shops that add to the village’s authentic atmosphere.
We spent a relaxed afternoon and evening at the heart of the village, the Plaça de la Fira, soaking in the local vibe. For lunch, we chose El Centru, a cozy, traditional restaurant offering a delicious and well-priced menu. While guests can also dine at the castle’s restaurant, which is known for its quality (we have had great experiences with other Parador restaurants in the past), this time we opted for something more rooted in the village setting.
The Salt Mine of Cardona
Salt has played a vital role in Cardona’s history for thousands of years. In prehistoric times, people collected salt directly from exposed surface veins. The Romans later began mining the area more systematically, recognizing the value of this natural resource. By the Middle Ages, salt had become known as “white gold,” prized not only for its economic value but also for its strategic importance in preserving food.
When the powerful Cardona family acquired ownership of the salt mine, it helped solidify their status as one of the wealthiest noble houses in the Kingdom of Aragón. However, with the sharp decline in salt prices in the early 20th century, the family eventually sold the mine in the 1920s to the Unión Española de Explosivos—a company that used certain types of salt for the industrial production of explosives.
The mine officially ceased operations in 1990, and after lying dormant for over a decade, it reopened in 2003 as a tourist attraction.
We took a private guided tour through the tunnels, which turned out to be a truly fascinating experience. The tour lasts about an hour and offers incredible insight into the mine’s geology, history, and the lives of the people who once worked there. If you’re visiting Cardona, this is absolutely worth your time.
How to Get to Cardona from Barcelona
By Bus:
ALSA operates direct buses from Barcelona Nord Station to Cardona, typically listed as the route to Andorra via Súria. Buses run 2–4 times daily, with a travel time of 1h45 to 2h. Tickets cost €8–€12, and the bus drops you off in Cardona town center, making it a convenient option.
By Rental Car
Driving in Spain is straightforward, with well-maintained roads and generally light traffic outside major cities. The speed limit on motorways is 120 km/h, and speeding is strictly enforced. In Barcelona, major rental companies like Hertz, Sixt, and Europcar have multiple locations.
Using a GPS—either rented with the car or via your phone (Google or Apple Maps)—is highly recommended. The drive to Cardona takes about 1 hour 45 minutes, depending on city traffic. Renting a car also gives you the flexibility to explore the surrounding countryside at your own pace.
Eating and Drinking in Cardona
We thoroughly enjoyed the breakfast buffet at the castle, served in the atmospheric old refectory beneath a gallery of pointed arches. At €20 per person, it offered great variety in a truly historic setting.
Another highlight was the three-course lunch menu at El Centru, located on Plaça de la Fira. At around €18 per person, it was both delicious and excellent value.
For dinner, there’s also the option to dine at the castle’s restaurant, offering local specialties in a unique medieval ambiance.
Travel Tip for Your Barcelona Castle Escape
- The bus drops you within walking distance of the hotel, but keep in mind that the path up to the castle follows the old ramparts—a steep climb. If you’re carrying a trolley or heavy luggage, it may be inconvenient.
- If you’re planning a day trip instead of an overnight stay, you can catch the 6:30 AM bus from Barcelona and return on the 5:15 PM bus. This gives you a full day to explore the salt mines, castle, and historic town.
- Don’t miss the guided castle tour—it’s well worth the visit and only €8 per person.
